The weather remained cool so we decided to cut our losses and head down to our next stopover a day early. Destination: the medieval town of Sarlat-la-Caneda.

At lunchtime, we came off the Satnav and wandered at will through the narrow lanes of the Hautes Viennes, into the land that time forgot. Abandoned houses standing empty, with birds flying in and out the windows. We came across the  tiny settlement of Pageas Chenevieres: just a farm and a few outbuildings, the thirteenth century church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Chenevieres and its large graveyard. Clearly this was once a thriving village. Some teenagers idly drove their car out of the farmyard and down through the fields as we set up our ‘picnique’ of bread and cheese.

After lunch, we came down from the Viennes and into the Dordogne. The drive through the Perigord region was beautiful with ancient hamlets, the houses made from a warm yellow stone, reminiscent of the Cotswolds. First we were surrounded by orchards of apples and then apple trees gave way to walnut trees – signs informed us we were on the ‘Route de Noix’.  All rather lovely.  Note to self: buy walnuts.

However, later that afternoon, David forgot the ‘look to the left’ rule and almost wiped us out at a junction. A scary moment. So now the ‘driving cock up’ score is one all –  and let’s hope we can leave it at that!