Today we were on the ‘Route de Tours’ the scenic route to Tours along the River Loire. As a coda to our trip to the megalithic menhirs at Carnac, we stopped off in the elegant town of Saumur, (birthplace of Coco Chanel, famous for it’s sparkling wine and its cavalry training academy) to see the largest Dolmen in Europe, the Dolmen de Bagneux. It’s a vast chamber, 23 metres long and three metres high, which is believed to have been used as a burial tomb. It is thought to have been built around the time of the first pyramids in Egypt, about 5,000 years ago. It’s a internationally important site, and so I was slightly taken aback to find it tucked away in the back garden of No. 56 Rue de Dolmen, just behind a café. An entry fee of 4 euros is charged by the café owner. The Dolmen itself rubs shoulders with the everyday accoutrements of a French back yard – a few plastic chairs, a table, a rusty slide. Faded information signs are strewn about or propped casually up against the Dolmen.  I couldn’t decide whether to be shocked or delighted by this. On the one hand, there is something slightly magical in the idea of opening a gate into a back garden and finding an extraordinary object like that – and perhaps if it was owned by the French equivalent to English Heritage or the National Trust, you wouldn’t be allowed to go inside or touch it.

At the same time, I am slightly appalled that such a treasure has been left in the hands of a private owner.  Some old newspaper cuttings in the café revealed that the Dolmen was for sale from 2005-2009 – Pascal Normand, the owner of the café wanted to move house but couldn’t find anyone to take it off his hands.  The article said that he was hopeful that an Englishman would buy it – ‘the English seem to love this sort of thing, the French have no interest’. I’m not sure if he got his wish or whether he is still stuck with it.

Wonder if he’s open to offers…?

The long gallery

I woke to see the sun peeping out from behind the clouds and felt sure it was going to go be a better day. David volunteered to walk into Brissac-Quince, as it was market day today, and he was eager to feast his eyes on all the joys of a French market.  I stayed behind as I’m currently working on a script and surreal as it seems out here, I have deadlines to meet! He came back bearing a selection of fine cheeses, a beautiful Bass for the barbecue, and two cheeky slices of custard tart with prunes (Sorry, the French word escapes me) .

It was well into the afternoon before I’d finished work, and we decided to stroll into town again and perhaps sample a refreshing ‘Pression’ at a nice looking bar David had spotted on the main square (new word: draft beer).  As we approached the town we spotted the thrusting towers of a Chateau known as ‘Chateau de Brissac’.  It was hard to miss, since it is (as we later learned) the tallest Chateau in France. It was built by the Comtes de Anjou in the 11^th century, but like many Chateaus it was ransacked during the French Revolution. Restorations began in 1844. Since we were in the Loire, and the Loire is supposed to be all about the Chateaux, we thought we ought to drop in and visit. We had to join a group as apparently the Chateau is still inhabited by the Brissac family (now know as the Cosse-Brissacs) and they’re not keen to have people wandering about their home looking at their unmade beds.  So a guided tour it had to be, at ten euros each. As we set off, I feared we may have made a mistake. I’m not a fan of a guided tour at the best of times and this one was in French. My A level French is a wee bit rusty.

I cast my eye round the first room – a drawing room, with the usual quota of fancy sideboards, ancient tapestries and fine china.  More surprising were the portraits of the present day residents rubbing shoulders with portraits of celebrities such as Sophia Loren, Roger Moore, Gerard Depardieu and Nureyev which were clearly taken at the Chateau. A hint of unexpected things to come.

Upstairs, we entered a vast empty gallery designed for large parties. I’m sure all those celebrities had some great times up there. The gallery led to a secret door – and who doesn’t love a secret door? –  which gave way to an intimate bedchamber where in 1620 King Louise IV and his estranged mother Marie de Medici met and were briefly reconciled before their two factions fell out once again. Again, unexpected.

Up another flight of stairs, there was an entire theatre – footlights, curtains, lighting box, the lot. Built on the instructions of the widowed Marchioness de Brissac, Jeanne Say. Apparently, she was a brilliant soprano herself and inevitably received top billing at her festival, which was attended by the best musicians and singers of the day. She hosted her very own opera festival every Autumn from 1890 to 1916. On her death, it was closed for 47 years and was only then restored to its original state. It is still used for performances today.

Stuffed and mounted

Next, we heard about another talented Marchioness. Widowed at 27, she devoted her life to making the finest quality champagne.  She is better known as Veuve Cliquot – “the Grand Dame of Champagne”. I assumed  ‘Veuve Cliquot’ was just a brand name. Her portrait hangs in the Chateau. She is shown on the terrace of the Chateau with her great granddaughter, Anna. She is in her eighties: all dressed in black,  she looks a formidable old bird.  Anna – later known as Anna de Rochechonart de Mortenant – went on to become a well known writer, campaigner and feminist. She was the first woman in France to gain her driving licence. She was also the first to receive a speeding fine!

The underground canal

The tour ended with an invitation to try three Rose wines which are grown by the Chateau. We tried them all and purchased the (cheapest) five euro bottle. Why pay more…? It went down very well with the Bass David bought in the market.

Chateau de Brissac won in tombola by English tourist